A Culinary Journey at Pétrus: A Wine Lover’s Delight
I may have just experienced the most extraordinary four hours of my life at what I believe to be the best restaurant in London. Having recently retained its Michelin star for over 13 consecutive years, Pétrus, under the masterful guidance of head chef Orson Vergnaud, is ushering in a new era of culinary excellence. Located in the heart of Belgravia, this celebrated Gordon Ramsay restaurant continues to set the standard for French fine dining.
A little over two years into his role, Chef Vergnaud has introduced a fresh, progressive approach to the timeless elegance of Pétrus. His vision is brought to life through four seasonally inspired menus each year, where art and innovation are harmoniously balanced. The result is a dining experience that is both luxurious and relaxed, perfect for any occasion.
Parisian-born Orson Vergnaud’s journey to becoming a Michelin-awarded chef began unexpectedly when a university strike led him to a local restaurant, sparking a passion for cooking that never waned. After culinary school and years of honing his skills in Paris and Toulouse, Orson moved to London in 2012. His talent quickly shone through at D&D London’s Plateau and later at Jason Atherton’s Michelin-starred City Social. Orson’s career flourished as he took on head chef roles at prestigious establishments like Le Pont de la Tour and La Chappelle, working closely with renowned chefs Jeff and Chris Galvin.
In 2022, Orson joined Gordon Ramsay’s Pétrus, where he has continued to elevate the restaurant’s reputation, retaining its Michelin star. Known for his dedication to perfection and innovative approach, Orson has created a family-like atmosphere in the kitchen and front of house, emphasising originality and seasonality in his menus. His goal is to make Pétrus a welcoming destination for both first-time Michelin diners and regulars.
Vergnaud’s commitment to classical French techniques is evident, yet he isn’t afraid to experiment with unusual and unexpected ingredient combinations. Each dish is a testament to the chef’s creativity and dedication to excellence. He offers five main menus; the Prestige Menu (a vegetarian Prestige Menu is offered); the Discovery Menu; the à la carte menu (a vegetarian à la carte menu is offered); a weekday, five-course lunch menu; and the Chef’s Table menu. Wine pairing is offered throughout.
I was lucky enough to work my way through the Prestige menu, accompanied by a flight of wines chosen by Milena de Waele, Head Sommelier. The great thing about asking the sommelier to choose the wines, is you get to try wines you wouldn’t necessarily choose yourself. However, they do ensure they check your preferences first before selecting from Pétrus’ extensive wine list, which boasts over 1200 selections from around the world. From vintage Pétrus to rare and hard-to-find bottles, the wine list is as impressive as the cuisine. Whether you’re a seasoned wine connoisseur or a curious novice, there’s something to delight every palate.
The Prestige menu is a culinary masterpiece that showcases the finest ingredients and innovative techniques:
Pissaladière: This dish features a delicate combination of allium and mushroom dashi, complemented by anchovy and paired with Quinta dos Carvalhais, Dão Branco Especial. The wine is rich with extraordinary body on the palate balanced by a lively acidity. An elegant, complex and very sophisticated white wine.
Isle of Skye Scallop: Perfectly seared scallops from the Isle of Skye are paired with coastal herbs, lemon, and an olive oil sabayon. The scallops are tender and sweet, while the lemon and herbs add a bright, zesty note, and the sabayon provides a rich, velvety finish. The perfect wine for this dish is The Soufrandière Pouilly-Vinzelles Climate “Les Longeays” 2020, medium-bodied and well-balanced taste with lots of lime and minerality, a hint of salt on the finish.
Rack of Dover Sole: This dish features a succulent rack of Dover sole served with kohlrabi, gooseberry, and elderflower. The sole is delicate and flaky, with the kohlrabi adding a subtle crunch, and the gooseberry and elderflower bringing a touch of tartness and floral sweetness. Milena chose the elegance of The Tablas Creek Vineyard 2019 Esprit de Tablas Blanc, a flagship white blend of Roussanne Grenache Blanc Picpoul Blanc and Picardan, to accompany this dish.
Aynhoe Park Deer: A beautifully cooked piece of deer from Aynhoe Park, served with beetroot, verjus, and shiso. The deer is rich and flavourful, complemented by the earthy beetroot, the tangy verjus, and the aromatic shiso, creating a complex and satisfying dish. Milena invited me to blind taste the next wine, and thankfully I got really close, with naming Produttori del Barbaresco 2020, but I opted to declare 2021, but I’ll accept being one year out. It’s a distinguished wine from Italy’s Piedmont region, crafted from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. This vintage is celebrated for its balanced and intricate profile, featuring red cherry, plum, rose petals, spices, cedar, mint, and tobacco. It offers a vibrant acidity and refined tannins, making it both refreshing and sophisticated.
When paired with venison, this Barbaresco truly shines. The wine’s acidity and tannic structure complement the richness of the meat, while its complex flavours enhance the gamey characteristics of venison. The fruity notes bring out the meat’s natural sweetness, and the spicy, woody elements add an extra layer of depth to the dish.
Selection of British and French Cheeses: A curated selection of the finest British and French cheeses, offering a variety of textures and flavours, from creamy and mild to firm and pungent (Sainte-Maure De Touraine, Le Barisien, Comte D’Estive, Pont L’Eveque and Pevenseay Blue). Just when I thought the pairings could get any better, Milena poured me a glass of Cockburns 1955 Vintage Port. A remarkable wine, known for its depth and complexity. It is showing beautifully, with a deep, rich colour and aromas of blackcurrant, violets, and warm spices. On the palate, it is full-bodied and smooth, with well-integrated tannins that provide a solid structure. The flavours are layered, featuring notes of chocolate, red berries, and a hint of spice, balanced by a lively acidity.
This vintage port is outstanding. Its sweetness and rich flavours complement the saltiness and creaminess of the various cheeses.
Sorbet: A refreshing interlude featuring a sorbet made with Calvados and apple. The sorbet is crisp and clean, with the apple providing a natural sweetness and the Calvados adding a hint of warmth.
Plaisir Sucré: A decadent dessert of chocolate crémeux, hazelnut, and milk. This dessert is rich and indulgent, with the smooth chocolate and crunchy hazelnuts creating a delightful contrast in textures. Paire with the 2022 Ben Ryé by Donnafugata, a delightful dessert wine from Pantelleria, crafted from Zibibbo grapes. This vintage boasts a rich bouquet of apricot, peach, candied orange peel, mango, and papaya, along with subtle hints of Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, it presents a lovely blend of fruity sweetness and honeyed notes, balanced by a refreshing acidity.
The wine’s sweetness and complex fruit flavours beautifully complement the dessert’s layers of chocolate, caramel, and nuts. The acidity in the wine cuts through the richness of the dessert, while the honey and tropical fruit notes enhance the overall flavour experience.
The Prestige menu is designed to take diners on a journey through a variety of tastes and textures, each dish meticulously crafted to highlight the best of seasonal ingredients. The flavours are bold yet balanced, offering a dining experience that is both luxurious and memorable.
Chef Vergnaud’s passion for the provenance of his ingredients and his relentless pursuit of perfection are evident in every aspect of Pétrus. “Every day of the week and every week of the year, I want to make sure we are delivering and improving,” he says. “We are making Pétrus a restaurant for everyone — whether you’ve never eaten in a Michelin-starred restaurant before, or you eat in one every week!”
His passion for the culinary arts extends far beyond the kitchen. He is deeply invested in the entire dining experience, ensuring that every guest feels welcomed from the moment they step through the door. Orson believes that exceptional dining is a symphony of elements, where the ambiance, staff interactions, and, of course, the food all play crucial roles. He works closely with his team to create a warm and inviting atmosphere, training staff to provide attentive and personalized service. Orson’s meticulous attention to detail ensures that each dish not only delights the palate but also contributes to a memorable and cohesive dining experience. His dedication to excellence is evident in every aspect of Pétrus, making it a place where guests can truly savour the art of fine dining.
If you are looking for an experience a place where culinary dreams come true, and every meal is a celebration of fine food and wine, then you’ve just found it!